Section 5 – Days 89 – 107 Leeches, Heat and good old friends!
It’s been a long time since I last wrote – take it as “No news is good news!” And now get
comfortable for a proper update!
In this past Section 5 I have had the wonderful gift of being joined by a couple of my
oldest and closest friends, Anja whom I have known for 29 years (!!!) with her partner
Christian and my bauju (sister in law in Nepali which has quickly become her new
nickname used by all) Beate, then Abby who certainly feels like I have known her forever
and of course John!
The last two and a half weeks have been full of laughter, deep conversations about the
world, it’s future, our future, climate change (whenever we had days of no rain when
really there should have been or the temperatures were unusually hot, and especially
when we passed yet another glacier that has receded far up onto the mountain slopes away
from any old demarcations on our maps and each time Satish could share stories of how
far into the valleys the glaciers reached back in the days – after all he has been
trekking these ranges for 30 years)… but we also talked about love, life, work and all
that really matters! Abby has had more card games up her sleeve than I knew could
possibly exists and added the brilliant spice of her British humour to our already
laughter prone group…. and we have been blessed with the most incredible weather!
We crossed Larke Pass (5130m) having to deal with some headaches and nausea but otherwise
in great spirits and with breathtaking views! Today we crossed our second pass in this
section (the 12th pass for me!) the famous Thorang La (5416m) of the Annapurna circuit
and everyone was clearly feeling much better acclimatized! It was a fabulous day with
views of Chulu Himal and Purbung Himal, Annapurna 2, 4 and 3 and Gandapurna, and after
we crossed the pass we could even see Daulaghiri peaking out at us and had the far view
into Dolpo’s high and dry mountains which we will head into two days from now! It was
brilliant and an absolutely perfect day.
For the first time since early March I am wearing shorts. The sun is strong and the walks
through the forest have been lovely not just because of the magical fairy feel but also
because of the shade they provide.
The heat had begun as we started coming down to Syabrubesi (1560m) and only in Bihi Phedi
(1970m) it had subsided as we were beginning to head back up!
It’s a very humid heat that drives the sweat out of every imaginable pore. Often the
rain clouds gather in the afternoon but rarely have we been caught in the typical
afternoon downpours of the early monsoon season – only once on day 89 one day before we
met up in Machakhola with the new Section 5 team we got caught in heavy rain for the
last three hours of our way which happened to be a 1000m descend on the smallest of
paths through the jungle! Mud and leeches galore!!!! It was an epic slippery affair
which had us all eaten or rather bitten by leeches on our ankles and calves and even
hands despite the fact that we tried to pick them off as soon as we saw them stuck to
our boots looking for the tiniest hole to get through to our yummy skins! The minute you
stopped to pick them off the one boot the next ones were busy climbing up the other… at
some point I just decided to let them be and rather walk as quickly as possible to not
give them enough time to latch on and then just check my legs and feet once we arrive in
camp! On that same downward jungle walk I saw rocks covered completely with earthworms –
a slimy ever moving mass that wiggled and moved in synch toward some unknown destination
and there was no way of stepping anywhere but right on top! I just was glad those little
black worms weren’t leeches and thus left us alone! We arrived in the river gorge where
we had the choice between camping on top of long wet grass crawling with leeches but
overlooking the roaring river and multiple waterfalls or a sandy spot outside some road
builders’ barracks and next to heavy machinery-leech free but rather unenchanting!
Unanimously we decided against the leeches no matter how uninspiring and awkward the
alternative was! With at least seven leech bites and my hair full of some sticky prickly
part of a bush that I could only get out by patiently combing my hair one strand at a
time it was still an awesome day which ended with yummy dal bhat in the kitchen tent
with all 8 porters and kitchen staff! It was a fun and crazy day and we all laughed and
cursed the leeches!
Since that day we have been lucky! Very little rain and lots of sun and wide enough paths
not to give any leech a chance to get near our ankles!
The Manaslu circuit is absolutely beautiful! I had already walked it in 2015 four months
after the earthquake which had been an experience of a lifetime for many reason – being
there so shortly after the earthquake, having to find paths where landslides had removed
whole mountain slopes and long stretches of paths, being the first tourist after the
earthquake and seeing people’s astonished and at the same time hopeful faces when they
saw me, and of course seeing the breathtaking green beauty of the river gorges, hanging
villages and monasteries …but since we were walking during monsoon in the month of
August we never saw any mountains! And this time we had the full view of all the
mountains with both pointy Manaslu summits, Samdo Peak, Himal Chuli looking down on us!
Compared to post earthquake three years ago life is definitely back in the villages
and on the fields, new bridges have been build and where the river had changed its
course and completely wiped out the last shoreline that had held the path
previously, now a metal cliff side hanging walkway has been built on the sheer rock
wall at the bottom of which the river roars and rushes downwards. Three years ago we
had to take a two day detour 1000meters up to the village Uiya (to be remembered
forever for the bedbugs we caught there in the emergency shelter tents and blankets
that the villagers had generously offered us for the night!!!) the next morning we
had had to descend again on a one foot wide path along an almost vertical 1000m down
facing grass covered rock slope back down to Jagat! This time we reached Jagat
comfortably (as do the hundreds of load carrying mules) on same said hanging river
walkway.
Generally it was astonishing to see how much rebuilding has taken place and how much
additional building of guest houses has happened in just three years. If it’s true
that the Manaslu circuit will take on the popularity that the Annapurna circuit once
had, the villages are certainly beginning to gear up for it!
After crossing Larke Pass (5130m) on Day 99 we reached Dharapani (a 24km day and an
almost 2000m descend down from Bhimtang) we celebrated our 100th day of the GHT!
Satish, Lhombu and I had actually walked all 100 days of the Great Himalaya Trail
(although I couldn’t help teasing Lhombu that there was one day where he hitched a
twenty minute ride with a Jeep when we walked on a jeep track on day 85 to Somdang
village!!) Many of the porters and other staff had been with us almost the entire
time but none else for all the sections and transitions between sections! Ramesh
baked the most yummy cake, we all had a shower (for me the first one in 26 days!)
and some beers and Pringles were had!
So talking of the team of all porters, kitchen staff and sherpas (my surrogate
family) each one of us and all of us together have had a formative journey since 28
February and Satish decided to do something with and for this incredible group of
dedicated and hard working staff. The very common and certainly much appreciated
expression of thanks is to buy a fresh lamb or some chickens for the crew which
Satish has done regularly throughout the trip. But that is not what he had in mind.
He started in Lower Pisang by gathering all his staff once camp was set up! Under
some beautiful pine trees next to a small river gorge and with a view of the famous
and enormous rock face with the very suitable name of “Way to Heaven” Satish
facilitated an appreciation circle. One after another each one of all the 26 staff
got to sit on a little stool and a minimum of five others from the group were ask to
share an appreciation for that person and of course Satish added his bit every time!
It was a heartwarming and wonderful thing to witness from the sidelines! It was
obvious that none of them had ever been asked to appreciate someone else with so
much intention and in front of so many people but equally and more importantly no
one had ever been appreciated and been told why and how they are bringing support,
skill and joy to their team, leave alone hearing it from Satish, their boss!
Afterwards Satish left them with three question regarding their personal highlight
and the most challenging part of the last three months and their personal vision of
where they see themselves in 5 years time. Those who can’t write he ask to find
someone who can to write it down for them. He sent someone into the village to buy
some pens and paper and gave them the deadline for lunch the next day!
They were stunned, curious, excited and nervous! No boss had ever asked them these
questions and shown this sort of interest in them. Satish finished by playing a fun
team game which had us all in stitches with laughter! And yet in the debriefing
Satish drew out some great observations from his staff about teamwork and what it
takes to succeed as a team when the task is hard and tricky. That night we heard
them till late in the night talking about their goals and dreams and sharing stories
from their epic GHT journeys the past 102 days! At lunch the next day everyone was
handing in their “assignments” and some where still hastily dictating their
responses to one of their friends who had had the privilege of going to school and
learning how to write! Satish was beaming reading all that had been written, some in
Nepali and some even in English! Porter Dawa Maila Tamang, who has been with us
almost the entire time (in fact he only missed the 7 days between Section 4 and 5)
had asked to borrow Satish’s headlamp the night before and must have written till
late in the night producing an 8 page essay where he recalls his entire experience
of the last 3 months in the most beautiful way! I have asked his okay to translate
it and make it our next blog! So stay tuned!
Once we arrived in Braga that day Satish quickly gathered everyone again for the
second leg of his team building process. All were very keen and a few had already
asked throughout the day whether they would gather again and play more games, too!
They were hooked! First he had them share in small groups about their goals and
experiences which one group member later fed back into the big circle! You could cut
the air while watching them speaking their dreams and visions and witnessing those
of others. And many took the opportunity to tell Satish where they are hoping to go
within Nireka Adventures!! Besides speaking beautifully at the end of this circle
Satish picked a brilliant game that had them speak about the necessity of focusing,
awareness and a “never give up” attitude that is required if you really want to
achieve your goals! Walking tall and full of laughter the group then pooled their
money and went off into the next village to find some chickens to slaughter for the
evening feast (funny enough I heard later that they couldn’t find any fresh chicken
and ended up buying 90 eggs instead!!!)
Tonight we are saying goodbye to almost all the porters as tomorrow Section 6, the
Dolpo section begins. We will have much longer days of walking and therefore will
have 14 mules carry our loads as well as a kitchen crew and a couple of our
strongest and most committed porters. We are in Kagbeni, the gateway to Mustang and
our gateway to Dolpo! The landscape has already changed completely to the lower
forests of the Annapurna ranges or the lush valleys that the Manaslu villages
nestled in! Here the land is arid and ancient with old forts and gompas. A world
reminiscent of medieval times, one we will immerse ourselves much deeper in in the
coming four weeks.
Speaking of medieval times – just like they didn’t have WiFi and cell phone reception
back then we won’t have any until we get to Jumla on 6 July! So please hang in there
and expect a flood of blogs with stories of crossing our next five 5000m passes and
of course as requested by our departing group of Abby, Beate, Anja and Christian
stories about our mules!!!
Meet more of the team
Ramesh Basnet, 33 years young. Ramesh is now Nireka Adventures’ main cook. He was
trained by Khem and they were very close friends. He had already run many trips as
cook when Satish ran parallel treks so he is certainly not new to have the main
responsibility in the kitchen. Ramesh with the nickname “Peter” (because he is very
tall like a European) has been with us from day one and then during our Section 4
left to run a big school group – an experiential outdoor Programme with an
international school from Singapore which Nireka Adventures runs in cooperation with
the Jump! Foundation for the third year in a row now. There he cooked for 30
students and a team of 20 staff three times a day. We will have the pleasure of
Ramesh’s delicious food until the end of Section 6. Ramesh could easily pass as a DJ
with his cap and his gangster style low rider jeans! He loves dancing and in the
kitchen he handles multiple dishes at the same time and never loses his cool! It is
actually a miracle performance every time I visit the kitchen. And while Ramesh is
clearly at the centre his team works magically and in synchronized around him
producing the before mentioned 5 course meals!!!
Nabin Shresta, 28, is now Ramesh’s apprentice and second Nireka cook to come. Nabin
has the most radiating smile, in fact it seems that he cannot speak without his
beautiful smile which lightens up our day every time! He has already baked cakes and
pizzas for us and between his charm and cooking skill he is the most wonderful
person to be around!
Bimal Tamang, first porter then “kitchen boy” and aspiring climbing sherpa, 23 years
old. Bimal has also been with us from day 1 and will be with us until the end of the
GHT. (He only missed the connecting bit between Section 1 and 2 and brought up my
brother and Dirk for section 2 instead) He is an inspiring and hard working,
responsible and confident young man. He started working as a porter at the age of 16
and has crossed Sherpani Col and West Col (both 6200m) 8 times already which is
nothing to laugh at! I have never seen him rest! He is often the first to arrive in
camp despite his huge load and he always sees the next thing that needs to be done.
Saroj Tamang, 27 years old. Still waters run deep! Saroj works in the kitchen crew
and is the man that has the main responsibility for all stoves! Kerosene,
maintenance and the safe transport of these essential tools of the kitchen! No well
working stoves – no food! He also matches if not even beats Bimal with regard to
focus, diligence and commitment to excellence when it comes to doing his job in the
kitchen. I am saying still water run deep because when asked to speak such as in
Satish’s appreciation circle he shone with deep and beautifully phrased observations
and profound contributions for each one of his colleagues and the team as a whole.
Kancha Tamang, 57 years young and thus the wise elder amongst us, was our cook for
Section 4 and the 7 days of transition to Section 5 and will join us again in
Section 7. He is a lovely and caring person to be around and also cooks fabulously!
In Section 4 – quickly catching on the group’s passion for potato chips/ French
fries- he made sure we had a steadily supply of freshly cut and crisply fried potato
chips/ French fries sometimes twice a day for lunch and dinner! And he baked us
scrumptious chocolate cake when we were really desperate for it – supplemented by
thick cream and chocolate sauce! Heaven!
