From Muchu after a yummy lunch we walked for 4 hours to Salli Khola Camp – on the banks of a roaring river in the middle of a forest with a view up towards Limi Valley – a beautiful campsite that had us all mesmerized by the river and the beauty around. The next day we walk back past the stunning waterfall and the edgy precipice we had passed four days before but with much nicer weather and lighter feet – we were heading home – this was just the cool down!
The last day of our cool down walk towards Simikot wasn’t really that – it was a three hour hike which ended with a relentlessly steep 1250m climb up, I supposed to make sure we end off on a typical Himalayan hiking note – it is always either steep up or steep down here in Nepal – “Nepali flat” they jokingly call it! It also was another last day of walking with our umbrellas as the rain was undecidedly wavering between drizzling and pouring down!
As soon as we arrived in Simikot, although we were still surrounded by heavy cloud, albeit it had stopped raining, we were told to be prepared – we would still fly out today! By now we knew how quickly the weather does change so we were tentatively excited – since we also knew that we were only certain we were actually flying out once we were on the plane and the plane had taken off…..
There was still time for a quick shower and even lunch. At this point the sky had cleared completely and the sun was beating down on us – again the umbrella came out –this time to keep the sun from frying my brain and skin!!
By 1:30pm we did indeed sit on the plane and had taken off towards Nepalgunj! Only 40 minutes later we landed in the tropics – the obtrusive humid heat of Nepalgunj (390 meters high!) welcomed us! We stayed in a fabulously fancy hotel and had the most delicious Indian curry that night – it all seemed unreal and yet it wasn’t! The next day again we were lucky and our plane left timely and we were back in Kathmandu by 10am in the morning! Voila! We made it!
So this is where I would like to thank a few people who have been on my mind throughout this trek and have been a support for me in one small or big way or another!
Of course there are all those who came and joined me along the way! John for 5 of the 7 sections!!!
Grahame, Lex, Margret and Tim who were our “warm up team” and brought lightness, laughter and new friendship to those first weeks, thank you, too, for your generous support of Khem’s family! We’ll see you soon in South Africa!!!
Section 2
My brother Philipp and Dirk in Section 2 for playing endless games of cards, singing really stupid songs and generally making me laugh even when the times were tough!
Section 4
Claudia, my mountain sister, and Chrissy and Tobias for lots of German speaking, new card games, and our shared fun sliding and slipping down deep snow slopes.
Section 5
In Section 5 Beate, Abby, Anja, Christian for the friendship, memorable conversations, laughter and silliness, countless new card games and general great spirit & Abby, thanks for the supply of the yummiest snack bars ever (Kind bars – in case anyone is interested! Amazingly tasty and, of course, super healthy and pc and ec – if only we had them in South Africa I’d develop an addiction!)
Section 6
In section 6 Nigel, for twitching and teaching me new things about the world of birding! Ann, for your humour and strong spirit even when the going got tough! Nancy, oh – for bringing the Chickering spirit into my journey and sharing your beautiful self so generously! Inspiring Superwoman!
My thanks also goes to my parents, Sabine and Hartmut, without whom I would never have developed my love for the mountains and who have been so supportive in more than one way to my endeavour from when I first shared my decision to do the Great Himalaya Trail.
Thanks to the rest of my family, my aunts and uncles who have supported me and so generously supported Khem’s family after his tragic death.
But thanks also goes to my friends in South Africa, Germany and all over the world who have cheered me along whenever there was an opportunity to connect…each word made a difference and made my heart jump with joy – reminded me of the greater world I am a part of, of all my other “families” out there! Thank you so much! Sometimes being reminded of the “other world” out there was anchoring and reassuring – often I felt so removed that reading the messages was bliss but the idea of engaging and responding felt like I would burst my 5 months Himalayan bubble and wasn’t sure what it would do with me. I revelled in my detachment and my truly being present to where I was and whatever was happening and important right then and there – the rain, the cold, the glacier or the roaring river, my fear, my joy, my tired body or the excitement of another early morning cup of coffee in my tent! So many memorable moments to be present to…some very small and, of course, some incredibly big – hopefully all if it will stay with me for a long, long time!
In my previous blog I have introduced 24 of Nireka Adventures’ core staff members – and to them of course goes the bulk of my gratitude because without them none of this would have happened! Their brilliant personalities, which shine with kindness, helpfulness, joyfulness, strength and team spirit as well as intelligence, flexibility, courage and an innovative spirit remind me and inspire me to always be the best person I could possibly be! Thank you for this and so much more that will be written elsewhere!
Last but not least, my biggest thanks goes to the man of Nireka Adventures whom I haven’t properly introduced here yet but who has been mentioned many times – The founder and owner, the trek leader and brain behind this big Adventure: Satish Man Pati
Satish started Nireka Adventures in 2010 after working for other trekking companies for over 20 years. Two things became the guiding principles of his work – he was going to follow his spirit of adventure and offer treks that are off the beaten track, unusual, remote and challenging – following the belief that what makes us come alive and grow is when we challenge ourselves!
The GHT certainly falls right into this category!
The second principle was to create a company where his staff are cared for in more than one way: he created a family, where everyone deeply cares not only for the clients, but for the gear and equipment, and most importantly for each other. It’s not Satish’s company – it is everyone’s and there is an understanding that everyone is doing an equally important job – from cook to trek leader, from porter to mule driver. No one is more important than the other, everyone is valued, has a say and co-creates the experience we all share.
Satish supports his staff’s development by finding out what their dreams and aspirations are, by recognising their potential and paying for their training courses in English or Japanese language training, mountaineering and ice-climbing skills as well as cooking courses for his kitchen crew. Satish, with the help of many of his clients, supports 20 of his staff members’ children by paying for their school fees, books and uniforms. His home is their home when they are in Kathmandu – he has created a family beyond his own.
Making the Great Himalaya Trail happen was a feat – logistically alone it is a much bigger endeavour than, for example, climbing Mt. Everest or any other 8000 peak. You don’t only manage the logistics of making sure the full equipment for an expedition is gathered and than transported to Basecamp along with organising well skilled staff and climbing sherpas and then, once the expedition is finished, make sure you get everyone and everything back off the mountain. No, the Great Himalaya Trail means 5 months off continuous logistics – with seven different section where clients, staff, food, equipment etc. need to be moved safely and with exact timing to and from Kathmandu to the most remotes entry and exit points of the GHT sections. Many more than the 24 staff I introduced were involved in this masterpiece – each one in their own capacity – and Satish held it all – each and every contact – never loosing his nerve even when things went not as planned – always a sharp mind, problem solving being his expertise, quick thinking and involving his trusted team are his strengths. Satish is a great delegator and gets the greatest joy out of empowering others to grow into their highest potential, he will never keep anyone small but rather challenge them to grow beyond themselves!
Satish is funny and has such a generous heart that I have yet to meet a person who has not liked him. For me he is a role model in his kind heartedness, generosity, selflessness. And he is not afraid to take risks, is courageous in his decision making, he understands and teaches his juniors action-consequence and is strict and rigorous where required. Of course all of this is combined with 30 years of experience in the mountains which makes him the best friend to have when going into the Himalayas! (and beyond, for that matter….)
Should this have tickled your interest please consider to join Satish in his coming treks or expeditions here is a very short list of set treks you can join – and of course Satish also custom designs whatever trip you dream of!