Section 2: Between Section 1& 2
Day 19 to 24 Lumba Sumba pass – we have crossed over into the Makalu Region
There is a steady sound of a drum, rhythmic and constant, sometimes humming then shouting voices come in and out in waves. I am in the village of Thudam. It is dark and accompanying the sound of the drum is the gentle trickle of snow falling on my tent. The rhythmic drumming reminds me of sweat lodge rituals for have had the privilege to experience. This drum, too, is not one of a puja, of praying as is traditionally done in the mornings and evenings- it is the drum of a medicine man, a ritual- possibly for someone who has fallen ill. This village is the most remote we have been to yet. No road anywhere near (not even from Tibet as we had seen in Olungchugola), no electricity, and no agriculture- nothing grows here not even potatoes, too steep and too high. So the villagers cut the trees on the slopes for firewood which they then transport on the back of their yaks to Tibet- still a three day trek with a 5000m pass- to sell and trade for food. They also sell their baby yaks in Tibet. I counted 20 houses but many seemed uninhabited. I saw about three elders and one toddler and two women weaving in front of their house – no others. We learned most are in Kathmandu or Sikkim in India for work. It truly seems a forgotten corner of far north eastern Nepal. The people here speak Tibetan and only very little Nepali. Buddhism and possibly animist shamanistic beliefs are strong (the drumming ritual speaks for itself but then there also were several square pieces of cut out grass and earth with sticks stuck in them crossed on top that had woven wool in kite like patterns on them – I have seen them above thresholds and entrances of homes before, never yet on earth squares laid out onto the path through the village like here. On two entrances I saw egg shells on strings hung above the door. Shamanism is very alive in these remote corners of the Himalayas… it seems a bit unreal to be hiking through these different villages- glimpses into another world and tonight we are even camping across from the village on the other side of its river – so close and yet worlds apart.
Four days ago in Olangchuggola I had gone into the beautiful old monastery up on the hill on our first rest day and was lucky to observe and sit in on a puja performed by the four resident monks. One of them really old and wrinkly- at least in his 60ties as mountain people age sooner and faster, then a middle aged one and two teenagers. Only the middle aged one in his crimson robes all other in similarly coloured down jackets …Their prayers were the usual hummed and mumbled almost monotonous Tibetan sing song with the regular powerful interruptions of the drumming, the bell, Tibetan horn and cymbals each instrument played by one monk each. The middle aged one accompanied his loud and unusually clear prayers with ever changing intricate mudras made with his two hands – my attention was mostly there knowing that each different hand position had a profound meaning, none of them known to me, yet I was intrigued and strangely taken by this particular aspect of his prayer. The eldest monk later gave out the red, blessed ribbons and tied them around our necks for good luck on the coming passes. Lhakpa, Kazi, and Arjun, our climbing sherpas, had brought prayer flags to be blessed which they would later on leave on the coming pass for good luck for the upcoming big crossings in early April…. any opportunity to get a blessing and appease the mountain spirits will be taken up. Up high in the mountains good fortune and a successful outcome can never only be assured through good preparation and excellent staff and equipment- the Gods also play a big role and due respect and prayer is given wherever and whenever possible… we are but tiny insignificant beings on the slopes of tremendous powerful mountains!
In the last four days we crossed another big pass, the Lumba Sumba pass, 5160m- a stunning pass which we were lucky enough to cross in the brightest sunshine. On top, after a two day approach up to the high pass camp at the end of an old moraine and then a steep snowy ascend on the day of the crossing an amazing view opened up onto Kanchenjunga reaching far above all other peaks, Jhanu on its right still impressive but so much smaller. And then there was a vast layer of clouds far below us covering the lowlands- it felt like we were getting a first glimpse of what it must be like to be on top of the world- to the west, once we reached the second saddle Makalu and Chamlang showed themselves. It will take us another three weeks till we will have reached Makalu and start the hardest section of our Great Traverse through its high passes and across its adjacent glaciers. It felt good to be greeted by this second 8000m peak from afar (we will pass 8 of the 14 8000m peaks on our journey, I have realized!)
It was strange and sad to say goodbye to our four companions from Section 1 – it was like seeing good friends leave and then having to reconfigure and find a new groove – that of our very small full traverse group – just John, Satish and myself – and of course our team of porters and kitchen crew all of whom I now know by name and am trying learn more and more about with my limited Nepali. Slowly slowly I am making progress. In another two weeks Philipp and Dirk will arrive to join us for Section 2. I can’t wait and am very excited for my brother to be joining me…
Speaking of family: Dear Mutti! Belatedly, lots of love and the best of health and joy in your heart for your birthday!!
So life on the Great Himalaya Trail is beginning to show a certain rhythm, and one things is for sure, the longed for simplicity and stillness of mind has certainly set in. I spend a lot of time with myself – in silence- while I am walking, letting the earth massage my feet and vice versa.
The mornings until about 2pm are mostly spent walking but then depending on altitude and consequently temperature many hours are spent in the tent. Here I read, write, or listen to my Nepali lessons and try and scribble some vocabulary down. When not in the tent I find a sunny place out of the wind and meditate which is always a joy as these mountains seem to be supporting this practice – I am conscious that I am not the first to sit in these mountains practicing stillness of mind and conscious presence. The other pass time I enjoy is sitting in the kitchen tent and watching Khem and his team producing culinary magic. Here, too, is where I pick up new Nepali words….
Aja bhato derai lhamo thiyo – today’s path was very long! (7 hours – 600m ascent and 1200 descent- 16 km!
